michiganPainting • September 15, 2015 • Comments Off on Making Ceiling Painting Painless
First thing you are going to need besides paint and a roller when paining a ceiling is a roller extension handle. It’s much easier and less tiring to paint a ceiling while standing on the floor rather than on a ladder.
Move all the furniture out of the room, for the large stuff like beds couches and dressers just move them to the center of the room and cover them with drop cloths. Once you have all the floors covered remove all the light fixtures that might be on the ceiling, by doing this you will spend less time because you do not have to tape anything or be careful around stuff.
Be prepared to get paint on yourself since there will be splatters and if it’s not a messy job then something isn’t being done correctly! Wear old clothes and a hat so you do not get paint in your hair.
It’s recommended to prime the ceiling before painting, using a primer with stain-blocker. Priming the ceiling before painting will save you time in the long run because you will only have to paint the ceiling with one coat.
Using a brush or foam trim brush, paint the entire outer edges of the ceiling along the area where ceiling meets wall first, this should be a 2- to 3-inch strip. This task takes much longer than painting the large open spaces of the ceiling but missed spots along the ceiling area where it meets the wall are an eyesore so it’s important to take your time and get this part right.
While the cut-in line is still wet, begin painting the ceiling with the roller. This is done while the the cut-in line is still wet to prevent a visible line. Your roller should roll right to the edge of the cut in and overlap slightly. If you get the roller any closer to the corners of the room you could end up with paint on the wall where you don’t want it.
That is it. That is all there is to it. Let your paint dry and don’t bother to pick up your mess until after you know that the paint is dry.
Painting a room can be a task that takes a couple of hours, a half day, or more all depending on your skill level and how much help you might have with smaller tasks that need to be done before any paint can be put on walls. In this write up, we’ll take you all the way through the process of painting a room. Starting from scratch to the clean up process. We’ll start at square one, with how you should use your painting equipment.
Rollers are one of the most important tools that you will need. Its easier than using a brush and without them a one day job would take two or three. Fill the well of the roller pan about half full, and place the roller into the middle of the well. Lift the roller and roll it down the slope of the pan, make sure you do not put the roller back in the paint as you do this. Repeat this step two or three times to allow the paint to work into the roller. Then, dip the roller into the well once more, and roll it on the slope until the pile is well saturated. You’ll know right away when you’ve overloaded the roller. It will drip en route to the wall and have a tendency to slide and smear instead of roll across the surface. The best and fastest method of painting with a roller is to paint 2-or 3-square-foot areas at a time. Roll the paint on in a zigzag pattern without lifting the roller away from the wall, as if you’re painting a large M, W, or backward N. Once you have completed one of the letters fill the square in still without lifting the roller off the wall. Go to the next unpainted area, and repeat the zigzag technique, ending it just below or next to the first painted patch. Finally, smooth the new application, and blend it into the previously finished area.
Moving on to brushes, the way you grip the brush is important to the accuracy of the cuts that you make and the speed at which you do the job at. Trim brushes with pencil handles are gripped just like you would a pencil, with the thumb and the first two fingers of the hand. This technique gives you excellent control of the brush for painting trim. With beaver-tail handles on larger wall brushes, you’ll need a stronger grip because the brushes are wider and heavier and you don’t need as much accuracy. Hold the handle with the entire hand, letting the handle span the width of your palm as you would hold a tennis racket or a golf club. This technique works best when you’re painting walls or large surface areas.
With the first dip, move the brush around a bit in the paint to open the bristles and let the brush fill completely. This makes it easier to pick up a full load if you jab the brush gently into the paint with each dip. The goal of loading a brush is to get as much paint on the wall as possible without getting drips on the walls, floors and even yourself. It will take you only a few minutes or a few drips on the floor to be able to gauge accurately how much paint your brush will hold before it starts to drip. Dip the brush quarter way into the paint can and as you remove it gently slap the brush against the inside of the paint can or lightly drag it across the inside edge of the lip to remove excess paint. Paint five or six strokes perpendicular to the edge of the ceiling or the wall. Next, smooth over these strokes with a single, long stroke, painting out from the corner first, then vertically. Where the wall and ceiling come together, use downward strokes on the wall first followed by smooth horizontal strokes.
Another cutting-in approach, beading, can almost eliminate the use of tape to protect areas that you do not want to paint. Use a trim brush with nice long bristles. Hold the brush so that your thumb is on one side of the metal ferrule and your fingers on the other. Press the brush lightly against the surface, then, as you move the brush, add just enough pressure to make the bristles bend away from the direction of your brushstroke. Keep the brush about 1/16 inch away from the other colored surface. The bent bristles and the pressure will release a fine bead of paint that will spread into the gap.
If you do end up getting spills or drips on the floor or all the best time to clean up paint drips and spatters is when they’re still wet and will wipe away easily. If you do miss them, you can clean them up later with some extra effort. Cleaning up drips and spatters on most other surfaces is easier and less time consuming. For latex paint, a soft cloth combined with household detergent and warm water should do the trick. Don’t scrub a freshly painted finish, though, even if it is dry to the touch it will ruin the look.
As you’ve seen in this write up, painting a room is a step-by-step process. But if you carefully follow the right directions from prepping to cleaning – you will have a professional looking paint job at a fraction of the cost.